Saturday, 17 June 2017

TSW Odette Top Pattern Alterations

When I made The Sewing Workshop Odette top I made the size small straight out of the envelope with the only change being to the side seams which I stitched at 3/8 inch instead of 5/8. Whilst this top is wearable (and perfectly acceptable if it was RTW) there are a number of changes that I felt were necessary to the pattern to get a good fit for me.

I have seen other versions of this top on the internet with the same problems, particularly in the bust area, so I thought it would be useful to include pictures of the alterations to better explain the process. Having a wearable muslin makes it easier to identify the changes that need to be made.

The pattern line drawing

The Sewing Workshop Odette Top Line Drawing

The full bust adjustment


Creates Sew Slow: TSW Odette Top

Creates Sew Slow: TSW Odette Top

I have enough circumference around the bust but have the horizontal drag lines indicating I need more depth for my full bust. In the pictures the lines are more pronounced on the princess seam side but in real life both sides are equally bad and need fixing.

For the left front princess seam I removed 1 inch at the raglan sleeve end tapering to nothing at the bust curve.  This was achieved by removing 1/2 inch on each pattern piece. The photograph below shows the alteration made to the princess seam. With my altered pattern piece on top of the original.

Creates Sew Slow: TSW Odette Top Pattern Alterations

For the right front the bust dart needed to be made larger but the problem appeared as gapping at the arm hole.  I created a 1 inch dart on the right front into the raglan armhole then pivoted it into the side seam enlarging the existing dart, shown in the photographs below.  I marked the bust point on the pattern piece as I thought the dart was a bit low.  I found the bust point by measuring down 8 inches from the neck edge point on this pattern piece and in four inches from centre front.  Once I knew the bust point I raised the end of the dart up half an inch - could possibly have raised it 1 inch but felt a bit funny about all my alterations being 1 inch. Stupid I know but pattern alteration is not instinctive and for me there is always a degree of second guessing myself.

Creates Sew Slow: TSW Odette Top Pattern Alterations

Creates Sew Slow: TSW Odette Top Pattern Alterations

Creates Sew Slow: TSW Odette Top Pattern Alterations

The raglan sleeve

At the front of the garment I seemed to have excess fabric in the raglan sleeve.  Normally when I do a full bust adjustment I redraw the shape of the armhole back to the original size and don't alter the sleeve pattern piece.  For the raglan sleeve I actually removed the same 1 inch as the front pattern pieces by creating a 1 inch dart in the front raglan sleeve tapering to nothing at the back. I then redrew the front seam line. This is the one aspect of the pattern alterations that I am unsure about - was the fabric really extra or have I just altered (ruined) the shape of the neckline?

For some reason I also forgot to alter the top when I originally made it for my forward shoulder so I moved the shoulder dart point towards the front 5/8 inch. This meant that I had to re-shape the dart edge so when the dart was closed the fabric is level. The top wasn't too uncomfortable to wear without the forward shoulder adjustment but I still noticed it.

Creates Sew Slow: TSW Odette Top Pattern Alterations


Creates Sew Slow: TSW Odette Top Pattern Alterations

The sway back

Once again a normal alteration I completely failed to do. Even though the seam in the back is not at centre back I just removed 1 inch at the nearly centre back seam line tapering to nothing at the side seam.

Creates Sew Slow: TSW Odette Top

Creates Sew Slow: TSW Odette Top Pattern Alterations

The style changes

I don't like the fact that it is relatively straight across the back and would also like it to cover more of my bottom so I have changed the back pattern pieces to have more of a shirt tail. The changed pattern piece is at the top of the photograph with the original underneath for comparison.

Creates Sew Slow: TSW Odette top pattern alterations

Something else I'm thinking about is increasing the peplum circumference at the hem by slashing and spreading the pattern piece. I'll save that idea for another time.

So now I have altered the pattern I just need to make another one to see if the changes were completely successful in correcting the fit or if more are needed. As well as seeing if the shirt tail idea is as great as I think it will be.

1 comment:

  1. Fascinating to see how you're altering the pattern. Looking forward to seeing the next version.

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