Saturday 26 December 2020

Style Arc Palermo Jacket Take Two - The Red Plaid

My wardrobe has been in need of a red cardigan for some time as I mislaid my red knitted shrug and the long Fjord Cardigan I made in early 2019 was donated due to the scratchy fabric. Enter the Style Arc Palermo knit jacket and a smallish cut of a red plaid woven wool/alpaca coating weight fabric. The idea came to me as I was nodding off to sleep on Friday and by Sunday evening the jacket was made. It then took me five weeks to write this blog post. In my defence it is Christmas and there is a lot going on!!

The finished garment

Here is the weekend version of the Palermo Red Plaid jacket worn with WORLD Cut Make Trim Mayrose tee, Andrea Moore Boyfriend jeans and P448 Skate Pailettes Stroil Sneakers. Loved it so much I coordinated my Saturday outfit to go with it, even after wearing it all week.

Having no stretch in the fabric does make it a bit less mobile than the first version but I don't find it bothersome and am really happy with how this turned out. Especially as despite not being able to do any plaid matching it came out in a very pleasing way - no jarring points to make the sewist's eye twitch.

Creates Sew Slow: Style Arc Palermo Jacket Take Two - The Red Plaid

With its red silk lining it feels super luxurious and no scratchiness from the wool fabric. The bottom picture shows the small box pleat added to the lining for ease of movement.

Creates Sew Slow: Style Arc Palermo Jacket Take Two - The Red Plaid

The fabric

This fabric was bought for a different pattern the Diane Ericson French Fold Shrug but the making never quite happened. Then I thought it would be a Papercut Patterns Fjord Cardi but I couldn't get the lines of the plaid to match and had very little fabric to play with having only purchased 1.2 metres so the project was abandoned. Third time lucky was the idea of making the Style Arc Palermo Knit Jacket.

The red plaid is a wool alpaca blend coating fabric and the lining is a lovely silk twill (allegedly a Marc Jacobs fabric). Both were from The Fabric Store last Winter.

Creates Sew Slow: Style Arc Palermo Jacket Take Two - The Red Plaid

Creates Sew Slow: Style Arc Palermo Jacket Take Two - The Red Plaid

The pattern

Style Arc describe the pattern as "perfect if you are taking it easy and looking for ultimate comfort without sacrificing your style. The Palermo Jacket features interesting design lines, that are surprisingly created with only two pattern pieces! The relaxed look contours the neck and sits just below the waist. A shrug style jacket featuring long sleeves, neck hugging collar and interesting design lines."

Suggested fabrics are: sweater knit or any fabric with slight stretch and drape. The wool alpaca mix woven coating fabric chosen for this version has nice drape but no stretch. The combination of the coating fabric and lining do make this more jacket like than shrug.

Creates Sew Slow: Style Arc Palermo Jacket Take Two - The Red Plaid

The pattern card

Creates Sew Slow: Style Arc Palermo Jacket Take Two - The Red Plaid

The pattern alterations

There were two improvements that I identified after making the first Palermo jacket: (1) the sleeves at the hem were a bit tight; (2) for a 1" hem some extra fabric was needed at the side seam hem edge in order to have enough fabric to lay flat when turned up.

For the sleeves I looked at the original pattern and decided to curve the sleeves out from the size 6 at marking B to size 12 at the hem. This gave me an extra ½" on both sides. As I was using a 1" hem I ensured the sleeve seam was the same width for 2" up from the hem. Altering the sleeve curve was easy laying the French curve next to the pattern at point B and at the size 12 point 2" up from the hem.

Creates Sew Slow: Style Arc Palermo Jacket Take Two - The Red Plaid
Back pattern piece with sleeves curved out to size 12 at the hem

To get the extra width at the hem on the front side seam I measured out 1" at the hem edge and laid the French curve on the pattern at the side seam and curved out to the extended hem edge. The curve makes the addition measure 1" at the side seam. If I had done a diagonal line it would have been more than 1" and the front and back side seams wouldn't have matched.

Creates Sew Slow: Style Arc Palermo Jacket Take Two - The Red Plaid
Front pattern piece with extra 1" at side seam hem cut edge

As I used a wool alpaca coating the jacket needed to be lined. For the back lining I used the same pattern piece as for the back jacket but with the pattern centre back fold 1" in from the folded edge of the fabric providing an extra 2" of fabric for a box pleat. For the front I cut a new lining piece removing the facing (minus seam allowance)

Creates Sew Slow: Style Arc Palermo Jacket Take Two - The Red Plaid

The sewing

As mentioned the first time I made this as long as you carefully mark the A, B, C notations (with snips in the fabric) Style Arc's assessment of this jacket as an easy make is appropriate. As I was intending to line the jacket all seams were sewn with a straight stitch on the Bernina 830. As an aside having owned the Bernina 830 since January 2012 I think I am finally comfortable with it. At long last I understand how to thread the bobbin and even the recent bit of machine embroidery I did turned out better than it ever has before.

I still used the Style Arc instructions with their informative little diagrams to make sure the right bits were being sewn together. As ever with a pattern with interesting shapes it is easy to confuse which bit is what and not sew the correct parts together.

Once again there were three instances where I didn't follow the instructions:

  • After the side seam was sewn I sewed the centre back collar seam together. Then I folded the sleeves in half and sewed from the right sleeve hem up the arm, round the back neck edge down the left arm to the hem in one continuous seam.
  • When I attached the shawl collar to the back neck edge I didn't sew in the outer fabric facing. The entire facing (front opening and collar) were sewn to the lining at the end.
  • Hem depth was increased to 1" for sleeves and garment body
To sew the facing to the garment body at the hem, the seam allowance on the facing was folded in, then with right sides of the fabric together the facing was sewn to the garment body with a 1 inch seam allowance to match the hem depth. The garment was then turned right sides out without trimming the seam allowance. I was first introduced to this idea by Louise Cutting who advocates this as the way to get a sharp square corner (which I did).

For the jacket lining I created a box pleat at centre back (sewn for a couple of inches at the neck edge and hem) for ease of movement.

The outer jacket and lining were both made in their entirety, apart from sewing the facing and hems. The hems (sleeve and body) of the jacket outer were turned up and pressed in place before the lining was attached, as it is easier to do at this stage than after the lining has been sewn in. 

The lining was pinned to the garment body at the facing but before sewing it I sewed the bottom hems of the outer and lining together for a couple of inches using a ⅜" seam allowance. Then I could sew the lining to the facing by machine without any hand stitching.

The lining arm was stuffed down the outer arm and pinned at the seam. This ensures that the arm is not twisted when the hems are sewn together. Turn sleeves wrong side out through the hem opening, pull the sleeves apart so they are facing each other - joined at the seam by the pin. Remove the pin, roll lining so wrong side is out and re-pin just to make sure you are not twisting the sleeve as you line up the raw edges of jacket and lining sleeve hems. Sew with a ⅜" seam allowance. Pull the jacket outer sleeve sight sides out and the lining will follow. Because the sleeve hem had already been pressed in place the sleeves are now finished.

Turn the jacket outer and lining body right sides together and pin together at the hem. The sleeves will be inside between the right sides of the outer jacket and lining body. Sew together with a ⅜" seam allowance, leaving an opening at centre back large enough for the jacket to be pulled through to turn right side out. That small opening at centre back is the only bit of the jacket that needs to be hand sewn (with a fell stitch). I didn't need to stitch the garment hem to the body as you normally would, it stays in place just sewn to the lining.

Once the jacket and lining were turned right sides out I sewed them together at the back neck edge. The seams of the back neck edge were carefully aligned (outer and lining) and then sewn together by stitching in the ditch of the back neck seam with the jacket outer up and the lining against the feed dogs. As the seams were carefully aligned the stitches cannot be seen on either the jacket outer or lining. The back neck edge is the only place (apart from the hems and facing) that the lining and garment are attached.

The pattern alterations for this worked well as all the pieces sewed together really easily.

The week of outfits 1

The Palermo Red Plaid jacket so met my vision of what I wanted that it had to be worn immediately. My work outfits for the week were chosen on the basis that they went with my new jacket. I felt really good in what I wore all week.

Monday: Megan Nielsen Flint Prince of Wales Check trousers with WORLD Friendship T (a purchased tee made from Diane von Furstenberg deadstock - China Vine pattern silk viscose knit)
Tuesday: Vogue 1250 DKNY dress in an ITY knit from Silhouette Patterns
Wednesday: Vogue 9243 Twirling Rebecca Taylor dress (fabric also from Silhouette Patterns) and Suzi Roher belt
Thursday: Megan Nielsen Flint Prince of Wales Check trousers with WORLD Make it Right Black T
Shoes: United Nude Lucid Molten Mid Lilac ankle boots

Creates Sew Slow: Style Arc Palermo Jacket Take Two - The Red Plaid

Special thanks to the photographer who had better things to do with his Sunday afternoon but waited patiently whilst I changed my outfits in order to recreate the looks from the week at work.

Creates Sew Slow: Style Arc Palermo Jacket Take Two - The Red Plaid

The week of outfits 2 - the Christmas edition

As it took me so long to write this blog post there is a second week of work outfits - Christmas themed in celebration of the season and my last week at work in 2020. Could also be labelled the week of the dress!

Wednesday: Moochi red silk dress (complete with outtake - many photographs are taken to get one with my eyes open and sometimes the multiple photos are still being taken when I move!)
Thursday: Silhouette Traditional Peppermint Patty dress
Friday: Silhouette Traditional Red Flower dress (even being worn again with my Christmas Pandora bracelet)
Shoes: Katy Perry Stephanie Mulberry mule


Friday 25 December 2020

Inspiring Bernina Christmas Stars

Making a Christmas themed decoration to hold chocolate treats has been an annual event since 2007. Quite a few of the chocolatiers in New Zealand make a Christmas themed chocolate and they are an ideal little Christmas thank you to friends and family far and wide.

Creates Sew Slow: Inspiring Bernina Christmas Stars
Mere Kirihimete me nga mihi o te tau hou ki a koutou katoa
Merry Christmas and happy New Year to you all
I have blogged about this little escapade of mine twice before in 2016 and 2017. No sweetie stockings were made in 2018 and 2019 as life got in the way. I thought the same thing would happen in 2020 until I saw the pattern for the stars - just the inspiration I was needing for the sewing machine to rev into high gear. The big difference this year is very few (five to be exact) travelled overseas due to the postal challenges that 2020 and its little virus have brought. I still managed to make 95 - four to the United States, 1 to Canada and 90 for friends and family around New Zealand.

It must be making the extra 28 for UK friends and family that tip me over the edge as the making this year was surprisingly relaxed and achieved on the weekends at home. No mammoth sewing hours in my hotel room in Wellington this year.

The finished item

Metallic pleather is hard to photograph and Christmas stars are even more elusive as they are given away before I remember to take a picture. The fabric from my 2019 Christmas dress made an ideal photographic back drop for the few that hadn't found a new home when I remembered the need for blog pictures.

Creates Sew Slow: Inspiring Bernina Christmas Stars

Creates Sew Slow: Inspiring Bernina Christmas Stars

This year the chocolate of choice was a Van H small Christmas pudding. It is a dark chocolate with a Bailey's cream centre and decorated with white, green and red to resemble a traditional Christmas pudding (but much nicer!)
A small Christmas Pudding from Van Heiningen Chocolates, Christchurch New Zealand
Photo courtesy of Van Heiningen Chocolates

Van H are a local Christchurch chocolatier that have been making European styled chocolates since 1985.

The fabric

I thought it would be difficult to find metallic pleather suitable for star making and was wondering about making them in glittery felt. I did a bit of online research and found metallic pleather at Spotlight so off I set on my fabric buying adventure. Before heading off to Spotlight I needed some real fabric for a clothes sewing project and popped into The Fabric Store. Lo and behold they also had the most amazing soft supple metallic pleather in two different colours a pale gold and a silver. The sewing fairies were really helping me along with this project, especially as it meant I didn't need to go to Spotlight (the Australia/New Zealand equivalent of JoAnn).

In these two pictures it is hard to tell them apart. The top picture is the silver and the bottom the pale gold. The silver pleather was purportedly a Marc Jacobs fabric but I am sure he didn't make little Christmas stars with it.

Creates Sew Slow: Inspiring Bernina Christmas Stars

Creates Sew Slow: Inspiring Bernina Christmas Stars

Not knowing quite how many stars I would be making I only bought 0.5 metre of each of the two fabrics which was enough for just over 60 stars. This turned out to be not enough and I went back for some more. The pale gold was still available but the silver had sold out. Instead I found some silver rainwear fabric which didn't fray so seemed an ideal substitute. Unfortunately there is no picture of the silver rainwear fabric or the stars made from it. 

The pattern

In a departure from previous years the stars are made from a commercial pattern. Normally I take a clip art image of a shape that inspires me and enlarge to the size I want, creating a front and a back, with the decorations essentially being 2D.

The 2020 stars came from issue 75 (Autumn/Winter 2019) of the Bernina Inspiration magazine. I have been collecting issues of this magazine for at least ten years and this is the first pattern I have ever used from it. There have been patterns of interest in the past but like many things they never saw the light of day. This issue of the magazine is still available to purchase here if anyone is keen to make 2021 a star year!

Bernina describes pattern 7536 Lucky Stars as "a beautiful decoration idea for New Year's Eve and at the same time a small gift for guests. In the stars the gift recipient will find a nice motto or a wish for the New Year."

I thought they were ideal for housing little Christmas chocolate treats.

Creates Sew Slow: Inspiring Bernina Christmas Stars

Creates Sew Slow: Inspiring Bernina Christmas Stars

There are two parts to the Bernina star (pattern pieces 81 and 82). Using only pattern piece 82 suited my needs, photocopied and glued to a piece of cardboard. I save a few cereal packets to be used for this type of project, as they are just sturdy enough to make a good pattern template.

Creates Sew Slow: Inspiring Bernina Christmas Stars

The pattern alterations

Aside from just using pattern piece 82 my stars are essentially the same as the original. The difference is in how I chose to sew them.

The sewing

Before starting to sew the stars I made:

  • embroidered name tags on cream felt with gold polyester embroidery thread using the Bernina 830 embroidery module, cutting them out with a pinking rotary cutting blade.
  • several metres of hanging loop cord using the rolled hem setting on the overlocker and three threads. The cord for the silver stars was two cream Metler Metrosene sewing threads and a Madeira Supertwist pearl metallic thread. For the pale gold stars there was one cream and one ochre Metler Metrosene sewing thread with a Madeira Supertwist golden linen metallic thread.

Creates Sew Slow: Inspiring Bernina Christmas Stars

The stars were cut out and sewn production line fashion, in batches of 30.   

Step 1 - for each star the opening on one side was sewn closed (wrong sides together) and the opening on the other side sewn closed at the outer edge for roughly ⅝". 

Creates Sew Slow: Inspiring Bernina Christmas Stars

Step 2 - for both sides clip into the seam allowance of the V. For the opening side glue down the seam allowance on each side of the opening. For the rainwear fabric the glue didn't work and I ended up ironing ¼" Steam a Seam 2 tape (cut in half) to the seam allowance. This was especially tricky because the rainwear fabric didn't take kindly to being ironed (I tested a piece first before ironing a star) but with my Clover mini iron and silk organza pressing cloth no stars were injured in the process.

Step 3 - sew the two halves of the star wrong sides together using the pattern cutting line as the stitching line. The hanging loop was sandwiched between the two halves at the opening star point.

Step 4 - trim the seam allowances and clip into the V at the base of each star point; then turn each star right way out using the Clover point turner for the star points.

Step 5 - sew on the name tag.

Creates Sew Slow: Inspiring Bernina Christmas Stars
A pile of stars on the kitchen bench after chocolate stuffing

Step 6 - stuff with the chocolate treat!

Another sweet treat

And because it is Christmas we indulged in a delicious Christmas themed cake from Sweet Soul Patisserie.

Creates Sew Slow: Inspiring Bernina Christmas Stars

There were many spectacular creations to choose from but I decided to stick with the Christmas theme with the Pinecone (made of milk chocolate mousse, roasted pine nuts & almonds, caramel and chocolate caramel sponge cake) and the mini Croquembouche Christmas tree (choux pastries filled with Orange blossom cream and raspberry with a shortcrust base).

A Pinecone from Sweet Soul Patisserie, Christchurch New Zealand

They were quite difficult to photograph and get the full spectacular impact so above is the picture of the pinecone from the Sweet Soul Patisserie website. If you are in Christchurch I thoroughly recommend this as an afternoon tea venue.

The cakes really are as delicious as they look.

Sunday 22 November 2020

Alabama Don't Give Up Hope Sweater

Don't give up hope could be the anthem for this year. As I typed this I was thinking about the Peter Gabriel song Don't Give Up which suited my mood but...


...in my Google search I found this song Don't Give up Hope by Third Day which whilst not my type of music its lyrics are tailor made for now even though it was released in 2010.


However this is a sewing blog and it is all about a piece of fabric purchased from Gorgeous Fabrics at the beginning of the year in the early days of COVID when my fabric still flew across the Pacific Ocean to arrive swiftly in my collection. Now shipping takes so long the fabric must be swimming here under its own steam which is a positive as I am less tempted to buy it!

The finished garment

This top has been worn quite a bit and goes nicely with my Megan Nielsen Flint mustard boyfriend jeans which hadn't been made when these photographs were taken. These pictures were taken at different times over the two months I spent at home earlier this year and contrary to the evidence I didn't spend the whole two months wearing this pair of Andrea Moore Boyfriend jeans. It is quite revealing that I am wearing different shoes (Trippen Fight boots in the first collage and Clamp Uncut ankle boot in the second) but the same trousers.

Creates Sew Slow: Alabama Don't Give Up Hope Sweater

Creates Sew Slow: Alabama Don't Give Up Hope Sweater

A Gorgeous Fabrics label was used in this top to remind me of where the fabric came from and the photographer even took a picture of the top with the label sticking out to prove it!

The fabric

This fabric is the Don't Give Up Hope Italian rayon jersey knit purchased in February 2020 from Gorgeous Fabrics. A very popular fabric that flew off the shelf and I was lucky to get a piece. I was attracted to the colours and print not realising then how much we would need such a sentiment this year.

Creates Sew Slow: Alabama Don't Give Up Hope Sweater

The pattern

The Alabama Sweater pattern can be made in tunic, top or crop top versions. It features a V-neckline and is loosely fitted through the bust with a generous flare to the hem. The Sweater pattern also includes five sleeve variations (sleeveless, cap, short, three-quarter and long-fluted sleeves). The tunic measures approximately 29", the top 26" and the crop top 23" in length. It was part of the Alabama Chanin 2016 Build a Wardrobe programme.

The PDF download includes the nested pattern and comes in sizes XS to XXL along with instructions for fabric selection, cutting, and garment construction.

Creates Sew Slow: Alabama Don't Give Up Hope Sweater

The pattern card

I am loving my pattern cards as they are a great aide memoire. For example I really thought this top was sewn during April whilst we were keeping safe at home (also known as lock down) but apparently it was sewn in early March only a month after the fabric was ordered. This must be the year of sew one of the fabrics purchased immediately. That could almost be considered stash reduction if I only bought my fabrics one at a time!

Creates Sew Slow: Alabama Don't Give Up Hope Sweater

The pattern alterations

This is a previously used pattern and I made no changes to it, sewing the size medium top version with elbow length sleeves and a forward shoulder adjustment.

Until I read my old post I had forgotten that the original pattern came in so many variations and am now tempted by a short sleeve or sleeveless one. Maybe even a tunic version to be worn with leggings.

The sewing

One of the quick and easy to sew tops, which was the sum total of my sewing at the beginning of the year. It didn't really fit into my Sunset SWAP but suited my mood and need for brain optional sewing.

The seams were sewn with the overlocker (a four thread stitch) and the hems on the trusty Singer Featherweight. Fold-over elastic (black with white polka dots) was used to bind the neck edge, sewn on with a straight stitch on the Featherweight.  I even followed the order of construction included in the pattern instructions just not hand sewn in the Alabama Chanin way.

Outfit of the day

There are no pictures of this top being worn in the real world, only garden pictures. An indication of the times we lived in when this top was newly sewn.

There is more venturing out now as New Zealand has managed to stay pretty much COVID free. Even went to a craft fair today which apart from the hand sanitiser and recording the visit on the contact tracing app is how life used to be. 

Sunday 15 November 2020

Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished

Why do I always disappear down the rabbit hole of wardrobe contests? So far I have never managed to put together sufficient garments within the timeframe to enter one so why am I fascinated by them? Maybe it is the rules that make me want to join in. They always seem so simple - my creative juices start whirring, fabric and patterns flashing across the mind and then... No sewing.

The problem this time wasn't no sewing it was unfocused sewing. At the end of two months I had five out of the ten required garments sewn, plus a few other things that weren't part of the plan.

So is it just the planning that appeals? Capsule wardrobes fit in with my lifestyle and I have long since given up making or buying orphan pieces. The Endless Combination competition was the closest I have ever come to an entry, even had enough finished garments - close but still no cigar.

Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished

With the Endless Combinations plan my downfall was not having pictures of the finished garments. This time I took pictures of the wardrobe combinations as the garments were finished, unfortunately this is pretty much the wardrobe - not quite ten finished garments.

The ideas

The changing seasons, a wardrobe contest, great rules - ooo lets put a wardrobe plan together or three.

Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished
Wardrobe plan version 3

Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished
Wardrobe plan version two

Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished
Wardrobe plan version one

Plan one was based on the Prince of Wales check trousers sewn over the weekend of 19/20 September. As well as the black and white there are stripes of red, purple and green. I was also really keen to sew another version of Vogue 1836 the Issey Miyake coat this time in a shocking pink waterproof fabric. The other fabrics were chosen from this starting point.

Then the Cone Mills Loomstate mustard yellow denim arrived and I couldn't wait to sew that so out went the DP Le309 Boyish trousers in a pink alphabet stretch cotton. The Liberty Satin Cloud Linford brushed sweatshirting replaced Vogue 1836. There wasn't enough of the bright flowers fabric to make the Tom and Linda Platt Vogue 1348 dress (more is on its way) and so it went on until I ended up with version three.

The rules

The contest was discovered on the weekend of 19 September so rule 5 was a non-starter but for the others lets get planning and sewing.
  1. Between 15 September and 15 November sew ten unique garments (a topper, two bottoms, two tops, an accessory, plus four other garments which can be any of the former but no more than two dresses and/or one additional accessory) 
  2. Everything must be sewn by machine or hand; using any pattern (or no pattern)
  3. Everything must form a cohesive wardrobe ie each top must look good worm with each bottom; the topper must be able to worn over each top and go with each top, bottom or dress
  4. The wardrobe must be sewn for a human (adult or child) no pet or doll wardrobes!
  5. Fabric may be pre-treated before the contest start and patterns muslined but no fabric can be cut prior to the start
  6. A review needs to be written for each item sewn with at least two pictures plus a composite review linking all of the individual reviews and including a photo of all the combinations

The topper

Instead of Vogue 1836 the Issey Miyake raincoat the topper ended up being Style Arc's Palermo jacket in a Liberty of London fabric (Satin Cloud Linford brushed sweatshirting). The pattern and fabric entered my stash at the beginning of October and were made in time to be entered into the Pattern Review Warm and Cosy competition. Not only did I manage to write a blog post about making this shrug I also wrote the required review and competition entry on Pattern Review. A miracle!! 

This has to be one of the quickest garments to sew and I can see many more in my future.

Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished

Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished
Style Arc Palermo jacket and Liberty Satin Cloud B Linford Brushed Sweatshirting

The bottoms

Both pairs of trousers were made using the Megan Nielsen Flint pattern. This has become my go to trouser pattern and has been made too many times to remember. These latest versions of the pattern have been changed to a fly front zipper. One day they may get a blog post of their own to explain the various pattern changes made to alter the style.

The style for the Cone Mills Loomstate mustard denim is based on a pair of ready to wear boyfried(ish) trousers that get worn a lot. My intention originally was to make the DP Le309 Boyish trousers but they were much wider in the leg than my RTW pair so Megan Nielsen Flint trousers were adapted to my vision. The smile lines over my tummy didn't appear until I stitched the waistband facing down and as it is generally covered by a t-shirt I decided not to unpick and fix it, especially as it would have required the removal of the belt loops too.

Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished

Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished
Megan Nielsen Flint trousers and Cone Mills Loomstate mustard 9.5oz denim

The fabric for the Prince of Wales check version of the Megan Nielsen Flint trousers was bought from House of Fraser on Oxford Street in London way back in the late 1980's. I was just about to graduate from university and needed some smart work clothes. Enough fabric was purchased for a jacket and skirt which never saw the light of day. The fabric made the long sea voyage to New Zealand inside the shipping container with our other worldly possessions, has survived many fabric culls and finally became a finished garment. I love these trousers, really have to make a conscious effort not to wear them to work every week.

Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished

Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished
Megan Nielsen Flint trousers and Prince of Wales Check fabric

The dress

This Sun Daisy Liberty tana lawn has been on my list of must sew since last summer. I originally purchased two metres of fabric to make a sheath dress then decided I really wanted another Lynn Mizono Vogue 1410 dress. Unfortunately there was not enough fabric and Liberty had sold out. Some weeks later when the summer sale came along so did this fabric and I was able to buy another two metres. Once the dress is made I need to decide what to do with the left overs!

Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished
Vogue 1410 and Liberty Sun Daisy Yellow Tana Lawn

I am hoping that this merino knit is stable enough to be successfully made into Vogue 9243 The Twirling Dress. I love this pattern and in the last year have made a midi and knee length version. This ochre merino knit from The Fabric Store will be made into the midi version. A versatile addition to my wardrobe.

Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished
Vogue 9243 and Ochre 180gsm Premium Merino

The tops

First the only top that actually got made. Yep another version of Vogue 8710 and there will be more. I already have the ochre coloured merino version (part of this wardrobe plan) cut out although it might be Christmas before it is sewn as there are other more pressing things to occupy my sewing time now.

The Happy Flowers fabric came from eQuilter and it too spent minimal time in the stash before becoming a finished top. I took this and the ochre merino away with us in October and whilst I took the pattern envelope my traced off version of the top was missing. So this version is made from a new tracing of the pattern with a two inch full bust adjustment. The last version I made had a 2½" FBA but seemed a bit big. In hindsight think I should have stuck with the 2½" FBA.

Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished

Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished
Vogue 8710 and Happy Place Flowers Cotton Jersey Knit

And here are the other ideas that didn't come to fruition, even though I am desperate to make both the Style Arc Georgia Peplum and Oki Style Sine tops.

Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished
Style Arc Georgia Peplum top and Prince of Wales Check fabric

Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished
Oki Style Sine top and Middle East Animal Print Rayon Lawn

Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished
Vogue 8710 and Ochre 180gsm Premium Merino

The accessory

The idea of an accessory being a must have component of the wardrobe was especially motivating as I was keen to make an Arden shawl carefully explained in Silhouette Patterns Let's Sew Episode 175.


Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished

Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished
No pattern Arden Shawl and Ochre 180gsm Premium Merino

I will do a full blog post on the making of the Arden shawl once I have made another one. This first version made using the measurements Peggy gave is much smaller than the inspiration version. As I am never likely to find The Row's Arden Shawl in a shop in New Zealand I have spent lots of time measuring the picture to try and work out what the measurements need to be for me to get the same look. Luckily this ochre coloured merino is still available at The Fabric Store and I was able to purchase another piece for my next version of the Arden shawl.

The extra fabrics

As always when I start doing a wardrobe plan I have lots of other fabrics that didn't quite make the final top 10 but could be made over the Summer months or stored in their plastic boxes for a few more years.

Creates Sew Slow: Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest 2020 Unfinished