Victory Patterns Ulysses Horizontal Hold Trench

The coat for my Minnie Mouse wardrobe was named by my dearly beloved who when he saw it modelled in a half made state said it looked as though the horizontal hold had gone. This will be meaningless to those who never experienced black and white analogue televisions with a picture that used to revolve (due to a problem with the horizontal hold) until they were hit in a strategic place. Ah those innocent childhood memories of a father with the power to miraculously stop the TV revolving.

I thought this was a very good analogy as my eyes certainly had a bit of trouble with the horizontal hold as I was sewing it.

The finished garment

For the photo shoot I went full out monochrome with Andrea Moore boyfriend jeans, Two Ronnies top and Ivy Lee Courtney black shoes. Actually this is the outfit I wore to lunch on Saturday with my beloved and it seemed like a good opportunity when we got home to take photos for the blog.

The fabric

This is a cotton jacquard from The Fabric Store which was purchased specifically for the Minnie Mouse wardrobe. Couldn't resist the thought of using both sides of the fabric for a coat.  It took a little bit of cogitating to decide how to feature both sides of the fabric with the end result being a black with cream half and a cream with black half. The pattern on the belt runs in the opposite direction to the coat but still maintains the black half and cream half.

This is the best photo of the fabric I could get. The camera on my phone doesn't like the horizontal hold pattern and just wouldn't focus.

The pattern

Victory Patterns describe the coat as "Ulysses mixes trench coat styling with a modern look. This relaxed, straight-cut jacket features draped elements such as a shawl collar and a clean-lined, curved back "rain guard" overlay. Notched-out holes along the sides seam of the overlay allow the jacket's belt to exit through from the back to the front. Other features include shoulder epaulettes, clean-lined, angled patch pockets with an upper flap, a centre-back vent, and a gently angled hemline at the front.

The body of the coat is unlined, making this a perfect, cool style for the warmer months. Instructions are given for finishing seams with binding, which creates a beautiful interior finish to the garment."

Photograph from the Victory Patterns website

The pattern alterations

This version incorporates the same alterations as the first one I made (the Rainbow trench). The only other change I made was to straighten the hemline removing the slight angle from the front. This version is unlined (like the Victory Patterns original), without the pockets or back rain guard overlay. I am still toying with the idea of making welt pockets using the leather trim.

The sewing

This was a really enjoyable coat to sew, with an extremely well behaved fabric that pressed well and caused no anxious moments at all.

Before I started sewing the coat pieces together I overlocked all of the raw edges. For the neck edge I stabilised it using tulle tape overlocked in place. The rest of the coat was then sewn on my trusty Singer Featherweight 221 straight stitch machine.

Based on experience with the Rainbow Trench the neck edge of this Horizontal Hold version was stabilised. The Rainbow trench collar doesn't hang entirely to my satisfaction and I think it may have distorted during sewing. Although having now taken the time to look at the original Victory Patterns version their collar rolls in just the same way as the Rainbow trench.

Whilst I didn't really want to loose the waterfall collar effect it was a worthwhile sacrifice for the stable edge. The tulle tape combined with the leather binding provided a stiffer collar which suits the fabric and overall look of this coat.

Stabilising the neck edge with tulle tape

The tulle tape

The fabric selvedge was used as a feature down the centre back seam on both the inside and outside of the coat.

Using the selvedge for the centre back seam

Although the raw edges at the neck edge and sleeves were overlocked I decided to bind them using red bias tape for a colour pop, as well as maintain the black, white and red theme!

Binding the neck edge and the fabric selvedge at centre back

Bias binding on the neck edge and armhole plus as hem tape on the sleeve

Leather trim was used to bind the outer edges of the garment apart from the sleeves which I hemmed. This 1" leather binding was fabulous really soft, easy to iron in half using a silk organza pressing cloth and sew in place.  The needle wasn't even changed to sew the leather just stitched it down using the size 70 needle used for all the other sewing.

Leather binding with mitred corners for the collar (top) and lower edge (bottom)

The leather was used to cover the collar centre back seam. The seam was sewn and pressed open then the leather placed over the seam and sewn down.

As well as trimming the cut edge of the belt with the leather it was also used to make the belt loops. The leather was folded in half and the long edge sewn then the short edge was attached to the coat top and bottom. There are three belt loops one at centre back and one at each side seam.

Outfit of the day

I took the Horizontal Hold trench to the West Coast when we went over for the day with visitors so it could be photographed at the Theatre Royal Hotel, Kumara in the same place as the Rainbow trench. Here it is worn with my Minnie Mouse Lana's jeans, Moochi Precinct linen sweater and United Nude Lo Res flats.

Since I made this version of the Ulysses trench it has been my go-to coat for the summer. Here it is worn with V1250 DKNY teal velvet burnout dress and United Nude Rockit Ace black gold suede ankle boot.

Illustrating its versatility here it is with my blue wardrobe for a week in Wellington. Sorry I haven't worked out how to get full length selfies yet without using the mirror in the bathroom at work.

Me Made Clothes on Monday (Silhouette Traditional Red Flower dress) and
Wednesday (V1250 DKNY Teal Burnout Velvet dress)

And here it is with my week in Wellington green wardrobe in remembrance of the tragedy in Christchurch on 15 March 2019.

Me Made Clothes on Monday (Ready to Sew Janis Feather top) and
Wednesday (V1250 Meandering Chrysanthemums dress) 

Need to get my act together and make some 6½" fabric blocks including the colour green if not green hearts for the Quilters Healing Hearts in Christchurch appeal.