Whilst this pattern is suitable for a woven fabric I wanted to try it with the drape of a knit fabric first. I loved the style but was a bit worried it would hang on me in an unflattering way.
My beloved took many photos of me in this top but I really am a hopeless model. Hardly any were usable because I had my eyes closed. In this one I might look like a little tin soldier in need of the loo but at least I have my eyes open.
The fabric
The fabric is an Art Gallery Fabrics (AGF) knit called Sand Bar Lagoon from Stonemountain and Daughter purchased in September 2016. It is a gorgeous cotton knit with 5% spandex, very soft with great drape and a good weight (260gsm). Definitely not a flimsy see through knit.
The pattern
Janis is described as a peplum style top with two collar options, both available in short and long sleeves. It's fitted at the shoulders and falls into a relaxed fit below the bust. I made view one which has a round neckline.
This is a PDF pattern which needs to be printed and taped together (all 33 A4 pages). Not my favourite way of passing the time but I am adjusting to the pattern assembly task for the convenience of a new pattern instantaneously - no waiting for the post.
This PDF is layered so you can choose to print all sizes or in my case the three sizes you think you might be. The benefit of this is that you don't have lots of confusing lines on the paper so less chance of accidentally cutting the wrong size.
The pattern alterations
I printed three sizes of the pattern (36, 40 and 44). To determine which size would be best I compared the pattern pieces to my TNT woven top. Whilst I was using a knit I only wanted it for the drape not the negative ease.
For the back I cut out the size 36, with the length of the 44. For the front I cut out the size 36 at the shoulder tapering out to the 44 at the side seam. For the peplum piece I cut out the size 40 which worked well with the two different sizes used for the front and back. I didn't use the sleeve provided instead using my favourite knit sleeve (from Silhouette Patterns Sweater Set #195) which has already been altered for a forward shoulder.
The front neck edge was lowered slightly by about ¼". The width of the shoulder seam was reduced by ½". A forward shoulder adjustment was made, raising the back shoulder seam ½" at the armhole edge tapering to nothing at the neck edge and lowering the front shoulder seam by the same ½". The armhole was then redrawn using my favourite knit armhole to account for the changes. Whilst I used my favourite knit armhole and corresponding sleeve the armholes on this top are very close to my knit armhole depth.
If I ever use the facing pieces I will need to redraw the front facing to take into account the changes made to the neck edge.
There are a number of changes I would make to this top if it is ever sewn in a woven fabric. One of which is the back armhole shape, which I would lower 1¼", because in my opinion the original armhole in a woven would seriously limit your range of arm movement. The front armhole for me would be fine but bear in mind that I do a forward shoulder adjustment which removes ½" at the front and adds it to the back. The front piece would also need an FBA, which would create a bust dart. It may also be useful to add waist darts at both front and back to limit the poufiness, which would then mean a reduction in the width of the peplum equivalent to one waist dart.
The sewing
Nothing really to say about the sewing. I can't comment on the standard of the pattern instructions because I didn't use them. This is a really easy sew on the overlocker which went together quickly. The hems and neck edge were turned under 3/8" and sewn with a single row of straight stitch on the sewing machine.
The styling
Great top and works well in the knit. I think it would need a lightweight woven to avoid the pepulum sticking out too much. Love the styling photos but I can't imagine your beloved was too patient taking the photos :-)
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