Style Arc Rosie Alice Top

Not all rabbits are created equal. The White Rabbit from Alice in Wonderland (Sir John Tenniel's original illustrations not the Disney version) is my favourite kind of rabbit however when it comes to matching the Alice top to your new Wildwood jeans and Kate Spade Edina ballet flats it just doesn't cut the mustard.

The top on its own wasn't that spectacular initially either but after a bit of reverse engineering I now love the top with a plain pair of trousers.

The finished garment

The finished garment photos were taken before I took it apart for the second time. Since I tweaked the armhole shaping the weather has been horrible and completely unsuited for a cotton top so no photos of the top in its current finished state.

Originally this top was due to be blogged once pictures had been taken of its final state however for the last three weeks I have been trying to write a post about a pair of trousers and can't seem to finish it. Blogging about this top is my palate cleanser which will hopefully encourage the trouser post to emerge from its cocoon or maybe it will continue to be elusive until I have made the second pair.

Style Arc Rosie Alice top with Untouched World Pure Skinny black jean and Camper Twins Luis Gordillo Sneakers

As you can see the top is much less successful with Lana's Wildwood jeans, even with my United Nude Fold Liqorice booties. The patterns really don't go together - can't imagine why I thought they ever would.

The fabric

This is a Lecien quilting cotton from the 2016 collection Girl's Story. A disappointing Japanese cotton much coarser than usual - very much a quilting cotton, purchased from some unknown Etsy source. Do like the print though.

Lecien Girls Story Alice in Wonderland Harlequin Teal

The pattern

I made the Rosie top for Cath nearly a year ago and have always fancied making it for myself.  Seemed ideal with this Alice in Wonderland fabric.

Style Arc describe Rosie as a versatile top with interesting back detail. A great top for all occasions. The slight cap sleeve is very flattering and the back inverted pleat give this top a point of difference.

Fabric suggestions are: crepe, washed silk, cotton, any woven with some body and drape. So for once I chose a fabric recommended by the pattern.

The pattern alterations

All of the pattern alterations stemmed from the fact that I don't like cut on sleeves and removed the cap sleeve. To start I used a TNT top pattern with a set-in sleeve lined it up at centre front / centre back matching the two patterns at the neck edge shoulder point and marking where the end of the shoulder seam came. Then using the armhole template for my favourite woven sleeve I drew in the armhole.

For the back I also made a sway back adjustment. For the front having altered the side front piece for a set-in sleeve I decided not to use a princess seamed front as it would distort the fabric's harlequin pattern. Instead I found a top with a French dart and manipulated that to be the front pattern piece, lengthened ½" at centre front, curving to both the same length as the original pattern at the side seam and the same width at the peplum seam.

Left original back pattern piece (white) overlaid with armhole template; and the new pattern piece (brown) on the right

Original front pattern piece (white) with new pattern piece (brown) on top. Left photo with armhole template overlaid

The top was sewn up and tried on. It was very unflattering - too long in the back and big in the waist. Pattern was altered to shorten the back and reduce the circumference at the waist and peplum hem, top was un-sewn, fabric pieces re-cut and top re-sewn.

After it was sewn the second time and tried on the length was good but there was extra fabric at centre back and around the armhole (not needed for a set in sleeve but required in the original design to create the cap sleeve). Pattern was altered again to: (1) lower the armhole and bring it in at the side seam blending back to the original waist; (2) increase the sway back by ¾". Top was once again un-sewn, fabric pieces re-cut and the top re-sewn.

The pattern pieces you see in the photographs above are the final version of the pattern, except I think the sway back alteration was too extreme and I will probably lower the centre back by ½". Just can't leave it alone have to be constantly tweaking striving for perfection.

The sewing

As the quality of the fabric was disappointing I didn't bother sewing it with french seams as I normally would. Apart from the hems it was sewn with the overlocker, and there was no hand sewing. Even the neck edge was just folded over twice and machine sewn in place. The hems were overlocked and turned up once.

This was a quick and easy to sew top except for my need to deconstruct it twice.