Wednesday, 16 May 2018

Megan Nielsen Flint Lydia Trousers

These are my second pair of Megan Nielsen Flint trousers and whilst the first pair are wearable I am much happier with the fit of this second pair.

The outfit of the day

Here I am wearing my Untouched World Lofty Merino cardigan, Andrea Moore Sweet Line Knit top and United Nude Fold-Lo shoes in neon lime. These trousers fit right into my travel wardrobe.

Creates Sew Slow: Megan Nielsen Flint Lydia Trousers

Outfit two
Still wearing the Andrea Moore Sweet Line Knit top and United Nude shoes, this time they are the Issey Miyake Rock Sandal in lime, with the Issey Miyake Individualist V2056 jacket I made earlier this year. The jacket and trouser fabric were bought together and I always thought they would make a good outfit but now I am not so sure.  Funny how you change your mind when you see a photograph.

Creates Sew Slow: Megan Nielsen Flint Lydia Trousers


The comparison

This version of my Flint trousers includes a number of pattern alterations which improved them to TNT state. Next time I make them will be quick and easy.

It is possible that whilst not perfect version 1 will end up getting more wear just because I prefer the fabric design. So much for using the less precious fabric for the first time make, at least they are an acceptable wearable muslin. Ironically it is this version that has come to England with me, fitting right into the travel wardrobe colour scheme  

We took the same shots with me wearing version 1 so that you could compare the two versions. Not an exact science comparison because I had been wearing version 2 all day whilst version 1 was freshly laundered and I find even though it is a non-stretch woven the fabric relaxes with wear.

Creates Sew Slow: Megan Nielsen Flint Lydia Trousers
Version 2 worn all day but still fits well at the waist
Creates Sew Slow: Megan Nielsen Flint Lydia Trousers
Version 1 gapping at the waistband and fabric wrinkles at the crotch
Creates Sew Slow: Megan Nielsen Flint Lydia Trousers
Version 2 not noticeably different from version 1
Creates Sew Slow: Megan Nielsen Flint Lydia Trousers
Version 1
Creates Sew Slow: Megan Nielsen Flint Lydia Trousers
Version 2 still some diagonal lines but I am happy with the fit
Creates Sew Slow: Megan Nielsen Flint Lydia Trousers
Version 1 looks fine when I really expected them to look much saggier in the bottom 

The fabric

As with my first pair of Megan Nielsen Flint trousers I used a Liberty Rossmore cord, this time in the pattern Lydia.

Creates Sew Slow: Megan Nielsen Flint Lydia Trousers

The pattern

The pattern is described as wide leg cropped pants or shorts with unique side crossover closure.  Pattern sits on the natural waist and features hidden closure at the left pocket, release tucks at the front, darts at the back, slash pockets, two waistband options and two lengths.

Version 1 is a pair of cropped pants with button closures.  Version 2 is a pair of cropped pants with tie closure. Version 3 is a pair of shorts with button closures. Version 4 is a pair of shorts with tie closures.

Megan Nielsen Flint Lydia TrousersMegan Nielsen Flint Lydia Trousers

The pattern alterations

This version of the Flint trousers is once again based on View 1 size medium.

Version 1 did have a post make alteration because the crotch was so low.  I undid the inseam and removed 5/8" from the back inseam then sewed them back together. This did make a difference to wearability but wouldn't get any points as a text book pattern alteration.

The only fit alteration made to version 2 was to remove 1.25 inches from the back crotch length. I just made a dart in the pattern piece tapering to nothing at the side seam. Then the crotch seam was trued up with a 3/8" seam allowance.

Creates Sew Slow: Megan Nielsen Flint Lydia Trousers

The other alterations made were to change the seam allowances to 3/8" and eliminate the waistband by adding 1.5" to the top of the pattern pieces. The darts were extended to continue the shaping. In my post for version 1 I talked about only adding 1/2" to the top of the trousers for a faced waist. However once the excess was removed from the back crotch length it became apparent that more height was needed to get the waist to sit in the right place hence the addition of 1.5".

Creates Sew Slow: Megan Nielsen Flint Lydia Trousers

Waistband height was added to the top of the pocket pieces too.

Creates Sew Slow: Megan Nielsen Flint Lydia Trousers

Making the waistband facing took some thought because of the left hand pocket being the trouser opening. The trouser pieces were overlapped at the seam allowances, including adding the pocket to the left back and right front pieces. The darts were also pinned out. The waistband facing could then be traced off to a depth of 2 7/8". The front left hand pocket width (minus seam allowances) has to be removed from the waistband facing as it is effectively part of the facing. I did forget to account for having a seam with the facing on the curved edge of the back left hand pocket piece and you can see this in the sewing photos with the edge of the pocket folded over.

Both the waistband facing and the top of the left hand pocket bags (where they form part of the waistband facing) are interfaced with a medium weight woven interfacing.

The sewing

The sewing was pretty straightforward with the seams sewn on the overlocker. I had to make changes to the sewing order because of the faced waist and how I added the facing to the pocket bag on the left side.

First thing was to add bias binding to the waist facing. Next darts were sewn.

Then the pocket bags were sewn to their respective trouser leg piece, crotch seams sewn, then the inner leg seam and right side seam including around the pocket bag.

Next the facing was sewn (with the overlocker) to the left side pocket bags front and back, continuing around the pocket bag to neaten the edges to the pocket opening notch. The side seam was then overlocked including around the bottom of the pocket to the notch.

Lastly the facing was sewn to the trousers.

Creates Sew Slow: Megan Nielsen Flint Lydia Trousers

The waist facing is not stitched all the way around to the trousers at the long bias bound edge. I didn't want a visible stitch line so I stitched in the ditch at the front crotch seam, right side seam and the darts (front and back). This is more than adequate to hold the facing in place

Creates Sew Slow: Megan Nielsen Flint Lydia Trousers

I chose a small square gold coloured button with a shank that had to be hand sewn on. A couple of test buttonholes were made to get the size right for the square button.

Creates Sew Slow: Megan Nielsen Flint Lydia Trousers

And the neatly finished waistband in all its glory!

Creates Sew Slow: Megan Nielsen Flint Lydia Trousers

The final step was a hand sewn trouser hem.

The garden

A gratuitous garden shot from the bored photographer.  His model hasn't got the hang of the art of the quick change yet.  Neither for photographs nor real life!

Creates Sew Slow: Megan Nielsen Flint Lydia Trousers

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