Three years between blog posts was not my intention however the desire to sew was stronger than the desire to write about it, resulting in my blog taking a very long nap. On the plus side if the blogging desire returns properly there are lots of projects to catch up on. Will need to pencil in some time with the photographer first though. Remembering the ins and outs of the pattern alterations and sewing may also be a challenge!
There is much discussion about are blogs dead as the time between posts lengthen and other forms of social media rise (I'm hopeless with Instagram too). I don't believe they are dead as a means of sharing our sewing adventures with whoever comes across them. This blog was my personal sewing journal, helping me remember what I did, the patterns I've sewn, what changes I made, etc. and maybe it can be again. Blogs as a source of fame and fortune seem less likely now. Posts are fewer and comments less plentiful even on those blogs with a large following. In some ways this appears to mean blogging whilst not quite dead is very somnolent.
The finished garment
I am not returning to blogging in chronological order sharing instead a pair of trousers sewn for the Pattern Review 2022-23 pants contest. With all the valid reasons for people not reaching the finish line I felt pretty feeble as my trousers were finished a couple of days before the 7 January 2023 deadline but I lacked any motivation to take pictures. Once finished I was just happy to have joined in the conversation and made some trousers and didn't feel the need to actually enter the competition. I even started a review (along with this blog post) before the competition close but got distracted before finishing it.
The fabric
A stretch cotton sateen from The Fabric Store which was only available online. Always a challenge as I end up buying more fabric than I need to get free shipping - such a false economy. Checking back on that November 2022 order I have used only two of the seven fabrics I bought. No need to wonder why my fabric stash is so enormous. The other fabric used was a blue and white striped cotton shirting with cut out and embroidered stars which became a Sewing Workshop Venice shirt to wear with these trousers. Unfortunately they don't look good together as the shirt is too long.
The pattern
Fitted cropped pants with side front pockets, side pleat hemline detail, invisible side seam zipper. Suggested fabrics: linen blends, crepe, sateen.
The pattern alterations
As with many of us the COVID years and a lack of exercise were less than helpful in containing middle aged spread and I graded out to a size 24 at the outseam but retained the size 16 inseam and crotch curve. With the fitting adjustments I made the final size is somewhere between a 16 and 24!
The interesting thing about these trousers was I tried the Ruth Collins Top Down Centre Out fitting method. I appreciated her thought process and enjoyed listening to the Threads podcast and watching The Crooked Hem series on YouTube. It was a new slant on things. Something to think about and try as we search for that elusive perfectly fitted trouser.
Having tried TDCO my preference is the pants fitting method taught by Peggy Sagers - her LCD (Length Circumference Depth) methodology makes sense and gives me good results. Maybe TDCO would have worked better for me if I had started with a curved waistband which is what suits my body but not what came with the pattern. Whatever the reason I like having both legs for my toile even though I only make changes to one of them.
The crotch curve fitted after using TDCO but I did check it against a TNT pattern to make sure. One thing I haven't noticed others mention is to remove the seam allowance in the curved part of the crotch of the toile otherwise you can't see how it will fit.
For the circumference I had to make changes in the finished trousers at the waist (removed ⅜" from each side seam and centre back a total of 2¼") making sure hip to waist still followed the shape of the french curve. I found it difficult fitting on my own to really assess circumference with only one leg. So as with most things in life there are different paths to success and we need to use what works for us.
I was attracted to this pattern because of the above ankle length and interesting side pleat detail. I think it is worth making again but the fit needs perfecting. Given the circumference alterations made it would probably help it I started with a different size - ignoring the pattern sizing and using the finished garment measurements to guide my choice. A lesson I really should have learned by now especially with the ease allowance used in Vogue Patterns.
The sewing
These trousers were a bit of a battle to sew, nothing technically challenging just a bit of inattention and stupid mistakes resulting in quality time spent with the seam ripper. A bit of an acutal blood sweat and tears project. On one of the reverse sewing occasions I pricked my finger not realising it had drawn blood so I got little blood spots on my trousers easy to fix with stain remover but duh... Sweat because we have been enjoying some true summer days and tears well more of a mini tantrum when I got fed up with myself and the stupidity which were turning these trousers into a major sewing project.
I am becoming more critical of the Vogue pattern sewing instructions. The glossary explains terms but not in enough detail for a beginner to understand what to do. Likewise they don't give pressing instructions. This pattern has a beginning statement to encase all raw edges with double fold bias tape after the seam is sewn with limited detail. For example can you encase the seams together or bind each separately and of course no mention of the possibility of a serger which is a perfectly adequate solution to neatly finish the edges of a cotton sateen. If you were a beginner sewer a good sewing book would definitely be needed to help you along the way. As I follow my own path generally this level of instruction is fine although this designer pattern won't be helping me improve my sewing. The addition of the fly front zipper necessitated a different sewing order anyway plus I added back patch pockets to break up the large expanse of fabric over my bottom.
For a fly front zipper I use the instructions from The Sewing Workshop Getaway Jeans which are clear and simple. Normally they are clear and simple with these trousers I stuffed up on the first step by sewing the right hand zipper tape rather than the left, then spent ages wondering why I couldn't make the next step work. No matter how good instructions are they can't compensate for an idiot operator.
To enable the trousers to easily be taken in at each side seam and centre back I divide the curved waistband (and facing) into four to have a separate piece attached to each leg piece. I add the waistband before sewing the centre back and side seams.
Outfit of the day
The outfit of the day pictures were taken at the Shipwreck Memorial on Gibsons Quay, Hokitika on a sunny Thursday in early January 2022. The memorial commemorates the 42 ships wrecked crossing the Hokitika river bar between 1865 and 1982. It is a concrete replica of the schooner Tambo (and its actual anchor) which grounded in a storm in 1866.
Rachel Comey Starstruck trousers are worn with the Sewing Workshop Venice Deux Spotted Gingham Top and Keds Triple-Up Rainbow People (designed by Elizabeth Olwen) sneakers. Plus it being Summer in New Zealand there is the ubiquitous straw hat for added UV protection.
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| At Sunset Point looking across the Hokitika River back to town |
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